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请大家帮忙翻译一下,谢谢 - 请大家帮忙翻译一下,谢谢
- 作者:smile  日期:2008年6月23日 10:57:00  阅读:

服装的眼睛

在国外被人们称为服装的"眼睛",在国内被人们称为衣服上的"珍珠"。它确实也是一种装饰品,无论是造型,还是色彩,对衣服都起到"锦上添花"的点缀作用。

钮扣分"扣钮"和"看钮"两种。扣钮在于扣合衣服,看钮则用于衣服的装饰点缀。

有无钮扣,是古今服装一个重要的不同之处。古人的衣着,只用带子而不用钮扣,无论从古人画像上、诗文以及历史记载和实物上,都很难找到使用钮扣的例子。

纽扣的出现

钮扣大约出现在公元12世纪。那时,男人把它缀钉在衣服上,作为一种装饰,正如女人把贝壳串挂在脖颈上一样。由于它那独特的美观性,女人也随之采用了。现代人把钮扣钉在袖口、肩头等部位,都是在审美方面继承了中世纪的作法。后来,古人在生活中发现,钮扣不仅可做装饰,还可以把它与衣服上的洞眼扣在一起,使敞开的衣襟更好地合拢起来,起到保暖挡寒的作用。

钮扣找到了它的实用价值之后,才成为真正意义上的钮扣。接着而来的就是它的钉法。当时的贵夫人、太太、小姐,起居穿扮靠佣人服侍,为了便于对面扣衣,把钮扣钉在衣服左边就能使佣人很顺手--灵活的右手捏住钮扣朝左手扒开的衣孔里塞进去。劳动阶层的妇女为了适应生活和生产的需要,也把钮扣钉在衣服的左边,只有这样,她们才能一边用左手托住怀里吃奶的孩里,右边的衣襟自然地搭盖住孩子的头部,一边腾出右手进行劳作。而当时的男人呢,由于经常 遇到角斗或战斗的的危险,为了避免持刀剑的右手冻僵或使右手能够轻巧地取出藏在衣内的暗器,剪缝师便挖空心思把钮扣钉在衣服右边,以图方便。这样,钮扣"女左男右"的钉法便成为一种传统,从中世纪一直沿续至今。

据资料记载,起初的钮扣制作十分简单,只是用贝壳、螺丝、木头作钮子,随着手工业的发展,改用布条子打成葡萄结做衣钮。后来又相继出现了胶木钮、电玉钮、金属钮、有机玻璃钮、涂塑钮、镀络钮、水钻钮等等,其造型千姿百态,色泽五彩缤纷。 据传说,欧洲是在16世纪以后才有钮扣的,是由参加"东征"的十字军从中国带回去的。当时使用钮扣的主要是男人,特别是贵族,为了显示自己的阔绰,利用钮扣争奇斗胜。法国历史上有名的国王路易十四,他有一件王袍镶了13000枚钮扣,而且每粒钮扣的钮面图案都不相同。为了这件王袍,他邀请许多专家为他设计钮扣图案。葡萄牙国王约瑟一世,有一件王袍镶有20枚钻石钮扣,有"钻石王"之称。18世纪以后,钮扣才逐渐推广到女性服装上。

现代钮扣的发展

随着科学技术的发展,钮扣的品种越来越多,越来越现代化。法国生产了一种音乐钮扣,扣子上配制了流行组合歌曲的旋律。瑞典制成一种不用缝的钮扣,钮扣的背面有塑料小板条,借助于超声波把它"焊"在衣服的织物上,美国一家商行生产了带有磁心的纤维织品,这样配钉上带有磁心的扣子就能紧贴住衣服。还有一种电感自动锁,"锁匙"就是钮扣。只要对着锁摸一下钮扣,锁即自动开启。这种"钮扣"能发出一定频率的电波,一种频率只能开一种锁……

现代一些国家甚至还建立了钮扣博物馆。例如捷克的一个钮扣博物馆就收集了各国各时代的钮扣,达150万粒之多。

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- 第 1 条回复  作者:小诸葛  日期:2008年6月30日 16:03:00

Clothing eyes

Abroad people call the garment "eyes" in the country was known as the clothes on the "string of pearls." It is also a decoration, whether it is modeling, or color, the clothes have played "the icing on the cake" of the role of embellishment.

Button at "withholding button" and "button to see" two. Niu deduction is a deduction clothes, to see buttons were used for decorative embellishment of clothes.

Whether buttons, old clothing is an important difference. The ancients of clothing, only scallops instead of buttons, from the ancient portraits, poems and historical records and in-kind, are very difficult to find examples of the use of buttons.

The emergence of Button

Button in the year about the 12th century. At that time, it is made up of men in clothes, as a decoration, as a woman linked to the string of shellfish in the neck on the same. Because of the unique aesthetic, the women also will be used. Button nail in the modern cuffs, shoulders and other parts are in the aesthetic aspects of the practice inherit the Middle Ages. Later, in the life of the ancients found that not only do decorative buttons, you can also put it on the clothes and Dongyan deduction together, to open Yijin better closure, blocked a warm winter role.

Button to find its practical value, to become the true sense of the buttons. Then came the nail is its law. At that time, the Gui Furen, his wife, Miss, personal servants serving Chuanban on, in order to facilitate the opposite withholding of clothing, buttons nail in the clothes left servants will be able to make very Shunshou - flexible Niezhu right buttons in the left hand of Bakai Clothing, into the hole to. Working class women in order to meet the needs of life and production, but also the nail in the clothing buttons on the left side, so that they can use the left hand side of the child Chinai Tuozhu arms, the right of the Yi Jin naturally covered with children's ride Head, the right hand side to make crafts. At that time, the men do, because often encountered Jiaodou or the risk of fighting, in order to avoid holding the sword or the right hand frozen to the right to remove lightweight clothing in the possession of the Anqi, the division will cut slit Wakongxinsi nail in the Button The right clothes, in order to facilitate. In this way, buttons, "men and women left right" of the nails have become a tradition, Yan Xu so far has been from the Middle Ages.

According to records, initial production is very simple buttons, but with shells, screws, a button-wood, with the development of the handicraft industry, to switch to cloth sliver labeled as do grapes guitar clothing button. Later the advent of the bakelite buttons, power-button, metal buttons, plexiglass button, plastic button, plating Tongxinluo Button, button, and so on stones, Qianzibaitai its shape, color colorful. According to legend, Europe is in the 16th century only after the buttons, by participating in "Dong-zheng," the crusaders brought back from China's. At that time, the use of the buttons is mainly men, in particular the elite, in order to show their Kuo Chao, an odd use of button-Doo. The history of the famous French King Louis XIV, he had a Wang gown inserts the 13,000 buttons, and per-logo button buttons are not the same. To this Wang gown, he invited many experts for his design logo buttons. Portugal's King Joseph I, a Wang gown inlaid with 20 diamonds buttons, "Wang diamonds," said. After the 18th century, buttons gradually extended to women on clothing.

The development of modern buttons

With the development of science and technology, more and more varieties of buttons, more modern. French production of a music button, the button on the preparation of the pop group's song melody. Sweden made one of the buttons do not have to slit, the buttons on the back of a small strip of plastic, put it through the use of ultrasonic "Welding" in the clothing fabric, a U.S. firm to produce a Cores fiber fabric, with such Dingshang Cores with the buttons can live close to clothes. There is also a inductor automatic locks, "key" is the button. As long as the touch buttons in front of locked, locks that open automatically. This "buttons" can be issued a certain frequency of the waves, a frequency can only open a lock……

Modern in some countries even the establishment of a button museum. For example, the Czech Republic, a collection of buttons on a national museum of the era of the buttons to as many as 1.5 million.

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